It's Sunday lunchtime in St Louis, close to the very middle of Middle America, and there's a healthy crowd at Hooters for the weekend's big football game. This particular branch of the beloved, reviled restaurant chain is within spitting distance of the city's Anheuser-Busch brewery, and the clientele is suitably Budweiser. There's a group of roofers at the next table, drinking 'Big Daddy'-sized beers. Across the beach-themed dining room...
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